Citrus plant propagation, pruning and transplanting


We covered the main points of caring for citrus plants in the previous parts of the article. If you have not read them, there are links to them just below.
Now we propose to figure out how to properly prune citrus plants. We will also consider how and when citrus fruits are transplanted, and in what way they can be propagated. Well, since citrus fruits can be eaten, and many growers grow them for this, we will also raise the issue of citrus fruits.
Now let's go over these points.

Pruning citrus plants - pinching

To form a beautiful citrus tree, you need to correctly alternate between pinching and forcing shoots. As soon as the young sprout reaches a height of 15-20 centimeters, pin the top - this will give the growth of lateral shoots. And then just watch. If you see that some shoots are too stretched, pinch again. If there are many young shoots, also prune them. The first (or even the second) year of the life of a citrus will go exclusively to the formation of a tree. As a rule, the plant does not bloom at this time. But if suddenly flowers appeared - do not regret, pluck them. They will not bear fruit, but will only take strength from the plant.

Our main task is to form the crown. BUT frequent pruning only promotes citrus growth... After such "bullying" you will get a beautiful tree that will bloom with unusual flowers. They are so fragrant that the atmosphere of the southern countries will immediately appear in your home. In addition, the leaves of all citrus fruits release phytoncides into the air, which have an antimicrobial effect - an excellent way to combat our domestic viruses.

Citrus fruits - grow and harvest

Every amateur grower who grows a citrus plant expects to get fruit. But for this you need to be patient. Not all flowers can form a fruit. In flowers grown from a stone, fruits appear late, in those from a cuttings - a little (1-2 years) earlier. But the terms are still considerable. You can taste lime and lemon in 2-4 years. Tangerines, oranges - after 5-7 years, and pamelo - 7-10.

The easiest way to get fruits is on a grafted tree. The graft, as it were, gains the memory of an already adult plant and expels flowers and fruits earlier. But they can be hybrid. But before fruiting, you can enjoy the flowering of these unusual plants. And when the tree begins to bear fruit, it does it almost every year.

To citrus plant drove flowers and then fruits, he must definitely provide a dormant period from November to February. The temperature should be 12-15 ° C, watering is very moderate without feeding. It is necessary to spray, as dry air can damage the foliage.

Transplant and reproduction

Partially about citrus reproduction I have already mentioned - best of all by cuttings or grafts.

You need to cuttings at the beginning of the growing season - from April to June. We take a stalk 10-15 cm long. We tear off the lower leaves. We plant the stalk in wet soil (sandy), make a mini-greenhouse. We are waiting for it to take root.

A graft is a stalk clipped onto a sprout of another citrus fruit (you can also of the same type). The graft is inserted into the split in the cotyledonous leaves of a 2-3 month old sprout. The place of the clothespin is wrapped with foil. We also make a mini-greenhouse and wait for the first leaves on the scion to appear. This usually happens after 1-2 months, after which the bandage is removed. Such plants bloom and bear fruit faster.

Watch an interesting video about Citrus plants. Look...

Well, that's all the tricks for growing citrus fruits. I wish you to grow and taste your own, not store-bought, lemons, tangerines, oranges and other exotic fruits.


  1. Indoor Plants Information

Sections: Houseplants

How to shape indoor lemon and other citrus fruits by pruning

Cutting the lemon correctly

Recently, more and more often you can find indoor lemon in houses. It is not a very tall tree that grows quite normally in a regular flower pot. But in order for it to be beautiful and bear fruit well, it must be cut off. This article focuses on how to prune your lemon correctly.

There is a statement that pruning a young lemon, which was grown from a shortened cuttings or seedlings, is necessary before the start of the active stage of the growing season already at the age of one year. This is usually done in February. In this case, the house tree should reach a height of 20 cm.

At the same time, there is a slightly different approach to lemon pruning. In this situation, it is carried out in the spring, most often in March, and always before the start of the first growth. Usually in the spring, lemon pruning is carried out during the flowering and budding period.

You can also find information that homemade lemon is pruned in winter. In this case, pruning is carried out after all the fruits have been removed. This pruning can also be done in the fall. In this case, the autumn-winter pruning of indoor lemon can replace the spring. This will help increase the fruitfulness of your homemade lemon.

It is believed that the best time to prune a lemon tree is still spring.

It should be remembered that you should only prune indoor young lemons when necessary, as frequent and unnecessary pruning can only weaken it.

If you have an old homemade lemon tree, you can prune it for rejuvenation. In this case, the weakened branches are cut to the maximum available distance in order to stimulate the growth of new young shoots.

With proper pruning, as well as timely and high-quality care, the lemon tree will bear fruit for a long time, and its life expectancy will increase significantly.

In the absence of timely and necessary pruning, the lemon will grow with one trunk with no side branches, or with an ordinary dense bush.

Since lemon is cut mainly in order to form a crown, they do it according to certain instructions and rules in order to achieve the desired result. An indoor lemon tree should have the required number of skeletal main branches, overgrown shoots and a large number of small fruit branches.

Lighting is very important for a lemon, so it is necessary to prune the plant so that its leaves can receive the maximum amount of sunlight.

For the formation and correct pruning of the crown, there are the following rules:

you should start pruning a young tree only after it has grown to a height of at least 20 cm

for trimming, the stem should be 10-15 cm in height, and in the case of a cuttings plant, you can do without it at all

you should take into account the needs of lemon in nutrients, light and other biological characteristics. Otherwise, cutting the crown will only allow you to get an ornamental tree that will not bear fruit.

Pests and diseases

At low humidity and high temperatures, there is a high probability of being hit by a spider mite. If the plant is small, it can be thoroughly rinsed under a hot shower with a water temperature of 40 - 45 ° C. It is recommended to spray large plants with an insecticidal preparation of the appropriate action.

In addition, the ficus is affected by whiteflies, aphids, mealybugs, thrips and scabies.

Of the diseases, the most common diseases of improper care are:

- leaf discharge is possible due to drafts, temperature changes, watering with cold water, lack of light, overdrying or overmoistening of an earthen coma
- root rot and dark spots on the leaves appear from stagnant water in the pot.

Ficus microcarp does not adapt well to changes in conditions of detention. For quick adaptation and getting used to it, it is recommended to spray it once a week with a solution of “epin” during the entire adaptation period.

Growing and caring for dieffenbachia

Dieffenbachia are unpretentious plants, they grow quickly without requiring any extra investments from the owner. In the interior, they can be used in group plantings, as well as separately. The shrub will look rich and self-sufficient. How to care for diffinbachia will be discussed further.

The plant tolerates shade well, is not afraid of hot, dry air. In the room, some species can stretch up to 2 meters.

It is better to put a pot of shrubs near the window, since the plant is light-loving. It is not advisable that direct sunlight falls on the leaves, they can become dimmer, decrease in size.

As for watering, there is only one requirement that the earthy clod does not dry out. In the hot season, you need to carefully monitor this and water dieffenbachia regularly. If the humidity is low, then the leaves can be sprayed. For this, settled water at room temperature is used.

Dust can accumulate on the leaves, so they should be periodically wiped with a damp sponge.

When the period of active growth ends and the period of rest begins, then the withdrawal changes. This is due to a reduction in daylight hours and the amount of sunlight. If you continue to actively look after, then new small leaves may appear, which will spoil the entire appearance.

Top dressing is carried out once a week throughout the entire period of active growth. If the plant is stretched up and the bare stem below looks ugly, then the trunk can be cut to the required length. New shoots will soon begin to grow from this place.

When growing dieffenbachia, you can face some difficulties:

  • Loss of barrel elasticity.
  • The leaves turn yellow and their edges curl.
  • Leaves become faded.
  • Leaves fall.

  • If the problem touched the stem, it became softer and began to rot, then this is due to the wrong watering regime and temperature. You can return the plant to its previous form by reducing the amount of watering and increasing the air temperature. First of all, you need to carefully cut out the damaged areas and sprinkle this area with charcoal. It is advisable to change the soil. If a large area of ​​the trunk has deteriorated, then the plant can no longer be saved. You will have to root the upper part of the trunk, and discard the whole plant.
  • If the leaves begin to curl, you need to check if a draft enters the plant. If the air temperature is below 10 degrees, then it will not be able to actively develop.
  • If the leaves are not so bright, they may be exposed to direct sunlight, which will discolor them.
  • If the leaves have begun to fall off, there may be several factors. First, the plant can go into a dormant period and shed old leaves. Secondly, it may have happened because of the dry soil. If young leaves fall, then it is possible that a draft gets on them or it is cold in the room.

Reproduction of citrus plants, pruning and transplanting - garden and vegetable garden

Everything about the garden and vegetable garden

Several years ago, I decided to try as many different types of cabbage as possible in my garden. Along with the usual varieties of early and late white cabbage, I began to grow red cabbage, broccoli, kohlrabi, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and Peking cabbage. Savoy cabbage was no exception.

Last year my husband and I have grown two varieties of green peas. I carefully wrote down the names, but I forgot where.

My dacha is already more than 30 years old. The same amount of dogwood bush grows on it. True, he is more years old, tk. his husband brought him from Moldova, where his parents lived. And then this dogwood was already two years old. I planted it and said that the dogwood lives for 200 years, and that it would not hurt us to check it out.

Red cabbage cannot be called an exotic vegetable for our gardens. But it still hasn't become as popular as cabbage. This can only be explained by the fact that many people do not like its hardness and coarseness of fibers, as well as a rather pungent taste. And yet, it deserves to be grown and consumed as often as possible.

We have seed potatoes in the cellar at the dacha. Everything was always good. They took it out for warming up, usually in March. The sprouts only hatched, and when exposed to light and heat, they became thick and short. They remained that way until the potatoes were planted in the ground.

For several years in a row I have been buying the seeds of some next "Chinese miracle", but I cannot boast of the harvest or the quality of the fruits. My neighbor in the country grows such cucumbers in a greenhouse and cannot boast.

Zucchini has long become one of the most popular crops in the country or in the garden. Their cultivation does not require much trouble, and the harvest
they give tasty fruits always stable and high.

There is a great variety of onion crops. Each of the species or varieties necessarily has its own characteristic. Bow - Slime, of course, has its own characteristics. And these features are so outstanding that they are the hallmark of this bow, and even gave it some names. So, Slime is called him because of the abundant secretion of mucus from a broken leaf, Glandular - because of the high content of iron compounds, and Wicked - due to the fact that unblown buds always look down.

Every self-respecting gardener and summer resident necessarily grows apricots on his site. Let at least one tree, yes. You cannot call an apricot a capricious plant. But there are obligatory work for him, without which a good harvest cannot be expected. These works are carried out throughout the year, and autumn is no exception. We can say that autumn events are the basis of the future harvest.

Read more

There is not a single gardener who does not know what wheatgrass is. This weed grows everywhere, adapts to any conditions. It is difficult to fight it, tk. she is incredibly tenacious. Wheatgrass has an extremely developed root system. The roots are horizontal and branch.

Transfer of lemons (transfer to a new pot)

This lemon seedling will move over and over again. Photo: Growing Wild

When growing indoor lemons, you cannot do without transplanting and transshipment - the plants are transplanted into larger containers as they grow and develop throughout their life. A wellness transplant (transshipment) may also be required.

Transshipment is a transplant with the preservation of most of the earthen coma of the plant.

In the process of lemon growth, the root system grows in breadth and depth, which means that the plant begins to starve - there is not enough nutritional area.

Signs of the need for a lemon transplant:

  • Stem and leaf growth slows down despite regular feeding
  • The soil dries out very quickly, despite frequent watering
  • Roots grow through the drainage holes, and the earthy clod is densely braided with roots, and the earth is almost invisible.

Adult lemons are transplanted less frequently than small ones.

Experience shows that young lemons need to be transplanted up to 3 times a year, and adult plants less often: summer ones - once a year over 5 years old - once every two to three years.

In any case, you cannot keep a lemon in a cramped pot - growth will slow down, flowering and fruiting will stop, the fruits are crushed.

General principles of lemon transplant:

  • When transplanting indoor lemons into larger pots, add fresh soil in part, or completely replace the soil with fresh soil.
  • It is necessary to transplant lemons from pot to pot quickly - the roots of the plant should not dry out.
  • The new pot should be 2 cm larger than the previous one, thoroughly washed and disinfected with bleach or formalin.
  • The substrate should be steamed with boiling water or heated in the oven.
  • At the bottom of the new pot, drainage from expanded clay and sand should be laid.
  • Before and after transplanting, the plant is watered abundantly.

When removing a lemon from an old pot, tap the sides and bottom of the container to make it easier to remove. You can use a knife to separate the earthen ball from the sides of the pot with care.

The earthen lump must be cleaned of the old drainage layer, taking care not to damage the lemon root system.

The depleted soil layer is removed with extreme care. If the roots of the plant are rotten, diseased or damaged, then they are cut off with a sharp knife, sprinkling the cuts with charcoal.

When transplanting adult plants, it is recommended to heal by shortening the roots. on the by dusting the cuts with ash or charcoal.

You cannot destroy the entire earthen ball - this damages too many roots, and the lemon is sick for a long time after transplanting.

It is impossible to completely destroy the earthen lump, because at the same time, a large number of roots are damaged, and the plant is sick for a long time after transplantation.

The earthen lump of the transplanted plant is placed in the center of the pot, the substrate is poured under the earthen lump, adjusting the height of the root collar so that the final height of the collar is lower on the top edge of the pot.

When the optimal location of the root collar is found, the substrate is poured around the earthen clod from the sides so that no voids remain. To compact the soil, the pot is tapped on the floor, and the soil is pushed with a sharp stick or a table knife.

When the clod is complete, water the lemon liberally so that excess water flows out through the drain holes at the bottom of the pot.

After transplanting, the room lemon is shaded, regardless of age, watered abundantly and sprayed with warm water. The plant is returned to its old place after a week, returning the previous orientation of the branches in space.

Buying a plant

Since adenium is perfectly propagated by seeds, you can grow a young plant yourself. The stores sell seeds of a wide variety of varieties, the cultivation of which is available at home. Packing of seeds of terry hybrids in the amount of 10 pcs. costs from 230 rubles.

If you don't want to wait for the adenium to grow, you can buy a ready-made plant. Blooming desert roses are popular as they are great as a gift addition. For an adult plant with a flower, you will have to pay from 600 rubles.

When buying adenium growing in a pot, you need to pay attention to the condition of the leaves. They should not be yellow in whole or in part. This could be due to pests or disease.

I bought myself two small sprouts of adenium. Growing up from seeds on my own - I didn't dare. The sprouts felt comfortable, but then one began to lose shape, wilted and died. Perhaps my mistake was that I left it in the open air, and there was a draft. Another sprout is on the shore and I try to please him, it's so hard to say. While he just "sits" in the pot.

I have long been growing five adeniums, which I grew from seeds - they do not bloom for a very long time, and three plants that I propagated by cuttings (as described in the article - during spring pruning, I cut off the tops and rooted them in a mixture of sand and vermiculite - they rooted well in high humidity). I recommend everyone to learn how to cuttings, since these adeniums pick up buds instantly - immediately after rooting, and to make the process of root formation go faster, I will reveal a secret - treat the cut with hydrogen peroxide.

I have never seen adenium before, although it looks very good. And it is not very difficult to care for, which is also very good. You will need to see if you can buy adenium for yourself. The neighbor will be surprised)

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